Skip to main content

The "Rogue Manual" - A Supplementary Manual for Pygmy Kayak Builders!

I've mentioned a few times that I'm writing a supplementary manual for Pygmy kayak builders.

It's currently up to 30 pages with lots more to go. About half of it is dedicated to the "strapping tape" method of building a boat and not using wires and holes. The rest is other techniques, tips and tricks that many builders have used over the years. If you want Pygmy kayak building tips and tricks then hopefully this will be the place to go.

Here are the first few sample pages:

The cover: 
Pygmy supplemental rogue manual


The Table of Contents and first few pages:
Pygmy supplemental rogue manual
Rogue Supplemental Manual Table of Contents






Those are the first eight pages of the thirty page manual. I'm sure it will be larger by the time I'm finished. Let me know if you have ideas of what should be included, or what you think of the manual so far. Thanks!


Aloha!
Labels:

Comments

  1. Unknown26 November, 2016 10:57

    For the manual... Keel Tape, I ran the tape all the way to the shear line on the stern, ended between panels 1&2 on the bow... If I had it to do over I would run it to the shear line on the bow also.. The keel tape doesn't seem to totally disappear... In my opinion, It looks better run all the way to the shear line

    (Borealis XL... in progress)

    ReplyDelete
  2. Unknown26 November, 2016 11:08

    Suggestions / lessons for the "Rogue Manual"

    => The keel tape doesn't seem to totally disappear. Instead of stopping between panels 2&3 I ran the keel tape all the way to the sheer line on the stern, and stopped between panels 1&2 on the bow.. If I had it to do over I would run the keel tape all the way to the sheer line forward and aft. It aesthetically looks better.

    => Cutting the "angle" and overlapping the cloth on the deck... This was frustrating to lay out.. It actually went fine, the 6" + overlap I used sanded out to where the overlap disappeared. However if I had it to do over again, I would order 3 yards extra fiberglass cloth and end the frustration and sanding hassle.

    => the best tool I've found for fairing / rasping / filing is: Shinto Saw Rasp 9" or 11" available @ Woodcraft.

    Let me know when your manual is available, I'm interested.


    ReplyDelete
  3. Steve26 November, 2016 11:58

    Thanks Grampy! Good suggestions. I like to run the keel tape first, before I glass the hull. It makes the tape virtually disappear entirely. And if you ever do wear out the bottom tape, you can just add another layer and you're no worse off than if you have put it on the outside.

    Email me for more information about the manual.

    Regards,

    Steve

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...
11 comments
Read more

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers.  After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating.  I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides.  Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away.  It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...
Post a Comment
Read more

Grain Surfboards Waterlog Surfboard Build! Part 1

I'm making a surfboard!  No, I don't actually surf. At least not yet. But we go to Hawaii a lot and a guy has to have a board, right? I didn't kayak either until I built my first Pygmy Coho over 25 years ago. Now I love kayaking. Hopefully the same thing will happen with the surfboard.  The board is a kit from Grain Surfboards . I chose the Waterlog in the 10' version.  I'm super tall and heavy and probably should have selected one of their larger boards, but this is the largest board they have that both Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines will let my check (They have a 10' 5" limit).  I didn't get any pics of the kit box, but it's just a long (10' plus) cardboard mashup box with sticks in it. The epoxy kit comes separately.  I also bought the "rocker table" that is CNC cut to precisely curve the board as you build it. I highly recommend buying a rocker table if you build one.        The kit comes with white cedar planks that you g...
Post a Comment
Read more