I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now.
Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time.
ATTENTION: Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build.
It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donation to my PayPal account (use my email address as my account) and then email me at that same address.
If you have tips or tricks that you think should be added, please let me know.
Good luck on your build!!!
Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time.
ATTENTION: Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build.
It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donation to my PayPal account (use my email address as my account) and then email me at that same address.
If you have tips or tricks that you think should be added, please let me know.
Good luck on your build!!!
Steve,
ReplyDeleteI'd like to get a copy of the PDF, but can't seem to pull your email address from your "profile."
Michael
Hi Michael. That's weird. Make this into an email address: steve deligan at gmail
ReplyDeleteLayed out my first strip and the destructions say toalign a 4' rule but when I do that there is a gap at the joint. If i join the sections flush they do not conform to the boat shape.
ReplyDeleteHi FreeRange Friar. I'm sorry, but I really don't know what you're asking. Sounds like a call to Pygmy is needed. Good luck!!
DeleteI have a 2007 coho that’s been through the wars. There’s now lots of miscolouration in the wood: dark spots that I can’t seem to sand out without going right through the fibre glass. I also have 2012 osprey and penguino that are starting to do the same. Suggestions on how to prevent the latter and fix the former. Is there a stain I could use to make everything the same colour? All three boats have had a proper UV protection outer coat, but they get used a lot banging around on rocks etc and they live outside near the sea full time. I don’t really care that much about how they look. But it would be nice to make them pretty again if there’s a way.
ReplyDeleteHi Unknown,
DeleteThis too sounds like a call to Pygmy, but I can take a guess though. Staining can happen for a variety of reasons. One is that there is an opening (crack, etc...) through the glass so that water can enter the wood. If this has happened then you'll want to find it and fix it as it can lead to delamination. It could also be that your varnish (or whatever you used) was applied unevenly and the UV protection is greater or less in areas. Areas where you have less UV might darken more. Not much you can do about the staining in that case, but it's still worrisome because UV destroys the epoxy and can again cause failure. Stain will probably only work on the actual wood and not on top of the glass, so unless you're willing to sand off all the glass, you're probably out of luck. I'd give it a good sanding and inspection. I'd then reapply epoxy in areas that need it. And then I'd apply many coats of a high quality varnish with lots of UV protection. But make sure you've dealt with any failed glass first and foremost. Good luck!
Steve I have a copy of the Rogue manual, but in my copy there isn't a designated "spacer measurement height" for the Coho Hi to mount the frames. Is the height for the Coho Hi the same as the Coho that is listed? I know you built a Coho Hi, so I'm wondering if you have those measurements if it is different? Thank you.
ReplyDeleteHi Jtdums,
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't want to guess on this one! Call Pygmy and ask for the spacer measurements. It may be the same as the Coho, but I can't remember that I did when I built the Coho Hi.
Good luck on your build!
Steve
Hi Steve,
DeleteDid you use the same taping techniques you used for building the Pygmy kayak to avoid nail holes when you built your expedition wherry?
If so then I'd be interested in your Rogue manual. (I have a wherry kit due to be delivered any day now.)
--Thanks,
Steve in Sequim
Hi Steve,
DeleteI actually thought about it, but then when the CLC Expedition Wherry kit arrived I found that all the holes were already drilled. They did a great job drilling them, by the way. Every single hole was perfectly aligned. Really nice job.
So I used wires to sew the kit together. Worked well. Seemed to line up very easily. Easier than a Pygmy kayak for sure.
I painted the outside of my wherry so there wasn't an issue of seeing holes on the hull. On the inside, you actually cover the vast majority. Having the tiny holes just isn't the aesthetic issue that it is on the Pygmies. Go ahead and use the wires just how they suggest. It worked out really well.
Good luck on your build!
Steve
By the way, I plan on taking my boat up to Lake Crescent a number of times once it starts to get warmer. Would love to see your boat at some point. I'm just down the road in Port Ludlow.
Delete