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Second Epoxy Coat on Inside of Annapolis Wherry Hull

Today I sanded out the entire inside of the hull again, and epoxy-coated the entire inside, again. Phew.  Here's how it looked at the end of the day.   First I used a cabinet scraper to cut down the really big fuzz that is created when you epoxy bare wood. I used it on the entire hull because it's a great tool for finding raised epoxy bits too. Then power-sanded where my 6" sander could reach. I hand-sanded the rest using a foam block with 80-grit sticky sand paper backing. I buy the rolls of sandpaper. The sticky back works really well.  Then I used the cabinet scraper again to cut off the tall scratches that the 80-grit paper leaves. This gave a nice surface for the epoxy.  Here's a close-up of how it looked after sanding. Then I epoxy coated the entire inside again.  I mixed up about 10 pumps of epoxy and poured it along the keel in the second section (I'm not epoxy coating the fiberglass again in the bow and stern... will leave the weave rough in those areas...

Mixing Small Amounts of Epoxy

The System Three epoxy that comes with the Pygmy kayak kits is great stuff. They include a set of measuring pumps that dole out the appropriate amount of resin and hardener in the required 2:1 ratio. The only problem though is that many times you don't need the large amount of epoxy that the pumps put out. The pumps are great for medium and large applications. You'll want that much when you go to wet-out some fiberglass cloth for instance. However, if you're just gluing a couple of seams or doing a number of other jobs that require small amounts, you'll end up wasting a terrific amount of epoxy before you're through. I get around that using a trick that I gained from making RC sailboats . You can easily adapt this trick for kayaks too. -------------------------------------------- First, get yourself two plastic syringes that are commonly used in epoxy work. You can find them at West Marine , Fisheries Supply , and other places. Look online too. Cut the tips...