Well... I put on the final gloss coat on the deck of the Grain Surfboards Waterlog .  IF I'm actually done with this board, then it took five weeks and two days to complete starting from the day it was delivered. It took a lot longer than I expected due to it being more technical and fiddley than most of the boats and kayaks I've built. I build an entire Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC) Annapolis Wherry in about the same time.  It looks okay. Might have to do some touch-ups, or I might sand it all and then polish it, but based on the way I'm feeling right now I'll probably just leave it as is. It'll get scratched up quite a bit once I start using it, and a few dust bits here and there won't be seen at that point. So I might as well enjoy the gloss while it lasts!   The epoxy really brought out the grain of both the northern white cedar and the western red cedar. It looks really nice if you ignore all the dust bits.  Here's how it looked after final sanding, wip...

The Grain Surfboards Waterlog surfboard has now had the fin box installed, the entire board has been sanded, and the bottom has received its gloss coat. Lots of progress since my last post.  I bought a Fins Unlimited Performance fin. No idea if that was a good idea or not, but it looks cool.     In my last post I had installed the vent plug and the leash cup. Since then I routed out the trench for the fin box and installed it. It went easier than I expected but I was nervous routing the trench.  Before installing the blocking for the fin box a few weeks ago, I drilled two marker holes for where the fin box would go so that I could easily see where to install it when I finally got to this point. I felt better about doing this than using measurements from the tail that might change somewhat during shaping. See the pictures below and you can make out the two holes fore and aft of the box layout.   I taped off the area and then carefully measured out fro...

The fiberglassing has begun!  It's always a thrill to see the rich colors emerge when the epoxy hits the glass.    I started by running blue tape along the seam of the bottom panel. I propped up the edges with bits of shavings.            Having the edges of the tape hang down instead of adhering to the board allows excess epoxy to run off and not accumulate on the other side. Once turned over, as in the picture below, you can see how the tape allows for drips to fall off.        Here is the fiberglass laid out and trimmed. I added slits to the nose and tail where the cloth would have a hard time conforming to the curves.      And here's how it looks after the "Lam coat" (Lamination coat). I started at the nose and spread epoxy over the first third of the board with my spreader. I then worked it out to the edges on both sides, and then over and under the rails.    Then I went back and squeegeed off...

 Since my last post I've made a lot of progress.   I've completed the rails and the landing strips.  Here is the chine log being epoxied in. By the way, I'm using epoxy for much of this. I ended up using Titebond III for most of the rails because they didn't have a lot of force on them and I could get them clamped down quickly (Titebond III sets quickly). But for anything that has any stress on it, I'm using WEST System epoxy that I have left over.   The nose strips had to be steamed. Read the manual for how to do this. It works well enough.  For the landing strips (the 'lands'), I'm doing the "alternative" method that is shown in one of Grain's tutorial videos . I'm running the outside one out the ends. It worked out well and I'd definitely recommend you do it instead of the convoluted approach they say in their manual.  I would expect that at some point in the future that they make this the primary way to do it and change their m...