Skip to main content

Fin Box Installed, Board Sanded, and Bottom Gloss Coat - Part 7

The Grain Surfboards Waterlog surfboard has now had the fin box installed, the entire board has been sanded, and the bottom has received its gloss coat. Lots of progress since my last post. 

I bought a Fins Unlimited Performance fin. No idea if that was a good idea or not, but it looks cool.  

 

In my last post I had installed the vent plug and the leash cup. Since then I routed out the trench for the fin box and installed it. It went easier than I expected but I was nervous routing the trench. 

Before installing the blocking for the fin box a few weeks ago, I drilled two marker holes for where the fin box would go so that I could easily see where to install it when I finally got to this point. I felt better about doing this than using measurements from the tail that might change somewhat during shaping. See the pictures below and you can make out the two holes fore and aft of the box layout.  


I taped off the area and then carefully measured out from the lines 2 13/16" to account for my router base and bit. Then taped down boards to act as guides for the router. It worked really well although I cut the trench a bit too large. But that just allowed for more epoxy so it's all good.  

Here is after the routing but before epoxying the fin box down. I re-taped it. 

I installed my fin box a touch farther forward than the manual suggested because I was really worried about routing into the top deck. Turns out I shouldn't have been worried. But what that meant was that I routed into an open section of the stringer and had to fill it with thickened epoxy before adding the fin box. 

When I epoxied in the the fin box, I had a fin installed in it so that I could clearly see if it was in straight. It was and I did not have to do anything to align it luckily. After these pictures were taken I used a syringe to fill the gaps with thickened epoxy. My first go didn't completely fill them. 


The next day after fully curing, I used my sander with 80 grit paper on it and sanded the rim of the fin box flush with the bottom. 

Now I could take the board outside and sand it. Here's how the deck looked after sanding.  


Today I did the gloss coat on the bottom. Here are some pics. 


This is how it looks now. I could probably do the deck gloss coat tomorrow but might wait an additional day for it to more fully cure so that I don't get any indent marks on the bottom. 

At this point I am not sure if I'll do anything else to the board or not. The manual suggests sanding and polishing the board, but right now there are not tooooo many ugly bits and I might just leave it glossy. After just a few uses it will start to show scratches anyway so I'm not sure if I'll bother or not. However, my wife likes the idea of a satin finish so maybe I will...  

Next will be do gloss coat the deck and then make some decisions about any final treatments. 

 

Aloha! 




 

 

 

 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Grain Surfboards Waterlog Surfboard Build! Part 1

I'm making a surfboard!  No, I don't actually surf. At least not yet. But we go to Hawaii a lot and a guy has to have a board, right? I didn't kayak either until I built my first Pygmy Coho over 25 years ago. Now I love kayaking. Hopefully the same thing will happen with the surfboard.  The board is a kit from Grain Surfboards . I chose the Waterlog in the 10' version.  I'm super tall and heavy and probably should have selected one of their larger boards, but this is the largest board they have that both Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines will let my check (They have a 10' 5" limit).  I didn't get any pics of the kit box, but it's just a long (10' plus) cardboard mashup box with sticks in it. The epoxy kit comes separately.  I also bought the "rocker table" that is CNC cut to precisely curve the board as you build it. I highly recommend buying a rocker table if you build one.        The kit comes with white cedar planks that you g...

Waterlog Surfboard Build, Part 2

 Since my last post I've made a lot of progress.   I've completed the rails and the landing strips.  Here is the chine log being epoxied in. By the way, I'm using epoxy for much of this. I ended up using Titebond III for most of the rails because they didn't have a lot of force on them and I could get them clamped down quickly (Titebond III sets quickly). But for anything that has any stress on it, I'm using WEST System epoxy that I have left over.   The nose strips had to be steamed. Read the manual for how to do this. It works well enough.  For the landing strips (the 'lands'), I'm doing the "alternative" method that is shown in one of Grain's tutorial videos . I'm running the outside one out the ends. It worked out well and I'd definitely recommend you do it instead of the convoluted approach they say in their manual.  I would expect that at some point in the future that they make this the primary way to do it and change their m...