Skip to main content

Holes in my Waterlog Surfboard, Part 6 of the Grain Build

 The hot coat cured overnight and looks... ok... although it will clearly need a pretty good sanding. Hopefully the gloss coat I'll add next week will go on better. 

This morning I took a bowl of hot water and a clean rag and wiped down the epoxy to help get rid of any amine blush that might have risen. It looked like there was a little and I'll probably do it again later before sanding. 

I intend to only sand the rail edges for now to prepare to glass the bottom and will let the deck cure fully for the next few days. Then I'll sand the entire board, top and bottom, later this week. Fully cured epoxy sands SO much easier than 'mostly' cured. 

Today though, I drilled holes in the board! One for the vent and one for the leash cup thing. 

This picture below is cockeyed and makes the holes look off-center to each other but they're actually pretty well aligned. 

I had already drilled a vent hole before even gluing down the deck and then have kept the hole open whenever possible. So today it was an easy job finding exactly where to drill. The leash cup was exactly opposite of the center line, so that was easy too. 

I masked the area and then used a 1 1/16" forstner bit in my hand-held electric drill and carefully drilled out the holes. I went a bit too deep in both holes but that we easy to remedy. The top rims of each are now floating barely above the deck level and should be pretty easy to sand flush once cured.  

I wetted out the holes with unthickened epoxy to ensure that the bare wood would get coverage, and then thickened the remaining epoxy with wood flour. I poured some thickened epoxy in the hole and set the piece in making sure that the epoxy squished up the sides completely. 

I might have some air bubbles that I might later have to fill but otherwise I think they're in there well enough. 

Below you can see that they are weighted down a bit.  


 

 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers.  After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating.  I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides.  Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away.  It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...