Skip to main content

Waterlog Surfboard Build, Part 2

 Since my last post I've made a lot of progress. 

 I've completed the rails and the landing strips. 

Here is the chine log being epoxied in. By the way, I'm using epoxy for much of this. I ended up using Titebond III for most of the rails because they didn't have a lot of force on them and I could get them clamped down quickly (Titebond III sets quickly). But for anything that has any stress on it, I'm using WEST System epoxy that I have left over.  

The nose strips had to be steamed. Read the manual for how to do this. It works well enough. 






For the landing strips (the 'lands'), I'm doing the "alternative" method that is shown in one of Grain's tutorial videos. I'm running the outside one out the ends. It worked out well and I'd definitely recommend you do it instead of the convoluted approach they say in their manual. 

I would expect that at some point in the future that they make this the primary way to do it and change their manual to reflect that. 

I'm also doing the second landing strips a bit differently by using long filler strips between the first and second strips. See the pictures to see what I mean.  


Here's the first landing strip being epoxied down and running out the nose. 

   

I am a big guy and want to reinforce everything as much as I can, so I added some small pieces of scrap to the landing strip notches just like they recommend for the tops of the frames. This gives the strips and much larger glue surface area to stick to. 



In the picture below you can see the added filler strips I used at the tail between the first and second landing strips. I added a second filler right at the end too. Looks nice and gives a lot of glue space. 


Added additional contact strips to the center keel too. I added a very thin strip of Peruvian walnut to my top plank and that means the planks next to the center accent strip won't have anything right under it. A hard heel knock might bust that seam so I added these to let them sit on something. 


I mentioned that I'm a big guy and I want to make sure that the top plank has enough support, especially under the seams. So I talked to Mike and he suggested that I could just do a double layer of glass on the top, but I thought that that would weigh too much. 

I really just wanted to reinforce the seams underneath, so I measured out where the open areas would be and epoxied down small "patches" of fiberglass and epoxied them down. Then I removed the tape and rolled the top down onto the board (which is still on the rocker table) and clamped it down. The small patches will cure with a slight curve to them this way. I put a plastic sheet between the top and the board so it won't stick. I will properly install the top in a day to two.  







Here is how the board looks after the landing strips have been installed. I have a small bit of cleaning up to do but it's mostly ready for the top plank once the underside patches have cured. 
 

 Next step will be to epoxy down the top plank and start shaping! 

 

Aloha!

 

 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers.  After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating.  I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides.  Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away.  It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...