Skip to main content

Final Gloss Coat on Waterlog Surfboard! Part 8 of the Grain Build

Well... I put on the final gloss coat on the deck of the Grain Surfboards Waterlog

IF I'm actually done with this board, then it took five weeks and two days to complete starting from the day it was delivered. It took a lot longer than I expected due to it being more technical and fiddley than most of the boats and kayaks I've built. I build an entire Chesapeake Light Craft (CLC) Annapolis Wherry in about the same time. 

It looks okay. Might have to do some touch-ups, or I might sand it all and then polish it, but based on the way I'm feeling right now I'll probably just leave it as is. It'll get scratched up quite a bit once I start using it, and a few dust bits here and there won't be seen at that point. So I might as well enjoy the gloss while it lasts!

 

The epoxy really brought out the grain of both the northern white cedar and the western red cedar. It looks really nice if you ignore all the dust bits. 

Here's how it looked after final sanding, wiping down with denatured alcohol, taping, and wiping down again, ready for the gloss epoxy coat.  

Afterwards... 

I tried harder this time to clean up runs, drips, sags, and curtains along the rails, and to evenly brush the epoxy all the way down to the tape. I didn't do a great job on the bottom gloss coat and ended up doing more sanding than I had hoped. Fingers crossed I got it all but we'll find out later.  

There are several obvious dust bunnies on there... ugh. 



 I'll remove the tape in a couple hours, and then see how it all looks tomorrow after it cures enough. 

 

Aloha! 

 

 

 

 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers.  After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating.  I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides.  Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away.  It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...