Skip to main content

Waterlog Surfboard, Part 4

My Grain Surfboards "Waterlog" 10' surfboard is almost ready for fiberglassing. 

I've been working on a number of final details before glassing though. 

Shaping was harder than I thought it would be. I mostly used my block plane and it took a long time. I never perfectly matched the rail templates that Grain Surfboards supplies but I think I'm close enough for my first surfboard. 

 

Overall I think the shape looks good, and I don't think I got anywhere near taking too much off. To better match the templates I should have kept going. 

The nose and tail also look good but don't perfectly match the templates either. Oh well. It'll float. 

I cut the tail off and added a laminated block of Peruvian walnut (to match the pinstripes) and white cedar from one of the cutoffs. I didn't want to put in too many colors like some people do and end up with a rainbow of colors. This is pretty classy and not tooooo busy I hope.  



Here's the final look after shaping the tail. 

I also added the logos. I do that before fiberglassing so that I can get them aligned as best as possible and so that I don't have to worry about them shifting while squeegeeing the fiberglass. 

I also use rice paper instead of the acetate that Grain sends. Rice paper pretty much disappears under epoxy and doesn't have a potential for de-laminating like acetate does. The "Stix of Wood" logo is mine. 

This is the bottom logo. I forgot to lay plastic on top of it and am worried that the edge of the Grain logo might show under the fiberglass, but it shouldn't be too noticeable.  (Update: Yes, the edges are noticeable. You can see a ghost outline of the rice paper). 

By the way, if you really want to explore using rice paper in a very artistic way, you should check out Boardlams.com.  They use a very nice rice paper that almost entirely disappears. Look at my "Stix of Wood" logo below. It's from a sheet that I had Boardlams print several years ago. The Grain logo is from high quality rice paper from Japan. But even that high quality Japanese paper doesn't disappear as well as what Boardlams can do for you. I sent them a file with several things on it and they sent me a roll of printed rice paper. I just cut out a logo and use it. 

 

Here is the top deck logo. I used some plastic sheet on top of the logo so that I could squeegee out the excess epoxy. The plastic sheet will easily come off when the epoxy is cured leaving a smooth logo. Doing the plastic and squeegeeing it helped it to disappear much better than the bottom logo. They are on the same rice paper that I printed using my inkjet. But this paper disappeared much better due to the plastic and squeegee job. 


 

 Next it's time for fiberglassing!

 

Aloha!

 

 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Grain Surfboards Waterlog Surfboard Build! Part 1

I'm making a surfboard!  No, I don't actually surf. At least not yet. But we go to Hawaii a lot and a guy has to have a board, right? I didn't kayak either until I built my first Pygmy Coho over 25 years ago. Now I love kayaking. Hopefully the same thing will happen with the surfboard.  The board is a kit from Grain Surfboards . I chose the Waterlog in the 10' version.  I'm super tall and heavy and probably should have selected one of their larger boards, but this is the largest board they have that both Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines will let my check (They have a 10' 5" limit).  I didn't get any pics of the kit box, but it's just a long (10' plus) cardboard mashup box with sticks in it. The epoxy kit comes separately.  I also bought the "rocker table" that is CNC cut to precisely curve the board as you build it. I highly recommend buying a rocker table if you build one.        The kit comes with white cedar planks that you g...

Waterlog Surfboard Build, Part 2

 Since my last post I've made a lot of progress.   I've completed the rails and the landing strips.  Here is the chine log being epoxied in. By the way, I'm using epoxy for much of this. I ended up using Titebond III for most of the rails because they didn't have a lot of force on them and I could get them clamped down quickly (Titebond III sets quickly). But for anything that has any stress on it, I'm using WEST System epoxy that I have left over.   The nose strips had to be steamed. Read the manual for how to do this. It works well enough.  For the landing strips (the 'lands'), I'm doing the "alternative" method that is shown in one of Grain's tutorial videos . I'm running the outside one out the ends. It worked out well and I'd definitely recommend you do it instead of the convoluted approach they say in their manual.  I would expect that at some point in the future that they make this the primary way to do it and change their m...