Skip to main content

Deck epoxied onto the Borealis XL

Tonight I finally glued the deck onto my Pygmy Borealis XL kayak.

Started by adding a second layer of epoxy where my feet will go. This is a really nice trick from the Pygmy manual. The rough weave of the cloth doesn't seem like it should be that big of a deal on your heels, but after being in the boat for a while it really starts to hurt. So adding a layer or two to fill the weave just in the foot area works really well.

Just lay down some masking tape and then roll on the epoxy. I actually did two fill coats as the first one wasn't enough. I also put blue tape around the foot brace studs so that when I run the fiberglass tape and epoxy down the hull/deck joint later on I won't get epoxy on the threads.

Pygmy kayak building tips.

Taping the deck on is no different than any of the other taping steps we've done, and when it's cured we will have a complete boat with ZERO tiny drill holes! And we will have saved ourselves a lot of pain and blood from that horrid wire.

I put the deck back on and spent about an hour carefully taping it down. You may have to use a lot of pins to hold portions of the deck or hull in or out to align the two together. Then you'll also need to run a lot of tape to keep it aligned.

Pygmy kayak building tips.




You can see from the pictures that I used a LOT of tape. Most of one roll. I just hope that they all hold long enough for the epoxy to cure!


Fingers crossed!


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers.  After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating.  I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides.  Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away.  It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...