Skip to main content

Lower Coaming Strips Sanded, Toggle Holes Drilled

Yes, I'm going slow with the lower coaming pieces as they tend to be something that the eye is drawn to and I want them to look good. Normally you would just glue them down and be done with it. However, yesterday I ran a small fillet of thickened epoxy around the bottom of the strips. Today I cleaned up those strips with some sanding and then painted on a coat of epoxy. Looks good!


The clamps stayed on because it's only been 24 hours and the shop hasn't been that warm. I want to leave them on for another day just to be absolutely sure that it is cured before I release the clamps and let the epoxy take the tension from the strips.





I also drilled the 1/2" holes for the hand toggles. It's always a challenge to get the holes in a visually appealing position, and then it's another challenge to drill the holes without having the wood on the other side blow out. This time I had minimal damage but there is still some that I may have to clean up. I tried to sand them a little bit and then coated the insides with epoxy. Tomorrow I'll sand them down some more and see what I need to do to clean them up and make them presentable. I think I may need to round over the edges of the holes.

NOTE: The reason I can drill my holes now is because I already filled the ends in an earlier step. The manual has you wait until the boat is complete and do an "end pour". 

Here's the bow toggle hole...I'm not totally happy with the placement, but too late now. Can't undrill it!


The stern toggle hole... Not super happy with its placement either, and I hit a bubble so had to fill it with thickened epoxy. It should be OK.




Peace!



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers.  After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating.  I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides.  Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away.  It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...