I've mentioned a few times that I'm writing a supplementary manual for Pygmy kayak builders.
It's currently up to 30 pages with lots more to go. About half of it is dedicated to the "strapping tape" method of building a boat and not using wires and holes. The rest is other techniques, tips and tricks that many builders have used over the years. If you want Pygmy kayak building tips and tricks then hopefully this will be the place to go.
Here are the first few sample pages:
The cover:
The Table of Contents and first few pages:
Those are the first eight pages of the thirty page manual. I'm sure it will be larger by the time I'm finished. Let me know if you have ideas of what should be included, or what you think of the manual so far. Thanks!
Aloha!
It's currently up to 30 pages with lots more to go. About half of it is dedicated to the "strapping tape" method of building a boat and not using wires and holes. The rest is other techniques, tips and tricks that many builders have used over the years. If you want Pygmy kayak building tips and tricks then hopefully this will be the place to go.
Here are the first few sample pages:
The cover:
The Table of Contents and first few pages:
Rogue Supplemental Manual Table of Contents |
Those are the first eight pages of the thirty page manual. I'm sure it will be larger by the time I'm finished. Let me know if you have ideas of what should be included, or what you think of the manual so far. Thanks!
Aloha!
For the manual... Keel Tape, I ran the tape all the way to the shear line on the stern, ended between panels 1&2 on the bow... If I had it to do over I would run it to the shear line on the bow also.. The keel tape doesn't seem to totally disappear... In my opinion, It looks better run all the way to the shear line
ReplyDelete(Borealis XL... in progress)
Suggestions / lessons for the "Rogue Manual"
ReplyDelete=> The keel tape doesn't seem to totally disappear. Instead of stopping between panels 2&3 I ran the keel tape all the way to the sheer line on the stern, and stopped between panels 1&2 on the bow.. If I had it to do over I would run the keel tape all the way to the sheer line forward and aft. It aesthetically looks better.
=> Cutting the "angle" and overlapping the cloth on the deck... This was frustrating to lay out.. It actually went fine, the 6" + overlap I used sanded out to where the overlap disappeared. However if I had it to do over again, I would order 3 yards extra fiberglass cloth and end the frustration and sanding hassle.
=> the best tool I've found for fairing / rasping / filing is: Shinto Saw Rasp 9" or 11" available @ Woodcraft.
Let me know when your manual is available, I'm interested.
Thanks Grampy! Good suggestions. I like to run the keel tape first, before I glass the hull. It makes the tape virtually disappear entirely. And if you ever do wear out the bottom tape, you can just add another layer and you're no worse off than if you have put it on the outside.
ReplyDeleteEmail me for more information about the manual.
Regards,
Steve