Skip to main content

Deck of Pygmy Borealis sanded

The two fill coats that I rolled on the deck two days ago was cured enough tonight for me to sand it. All of the little rises and dips of the fill coats easily flattened out.

TIP: Don't try to use each disk too long. As soon as it starts to gum up it will only heat the epoxy and soften it so that it gets even more gummy and smears. Change the paper often! ELEVEN disks were used until I ran out of sanding disks so I'll need to finish it tomorrow. Carefully watch your work. When it's new a disk will cut and flatten well, but it will only last 5-10 minutes or so.  When it starts to take up some gummed epoxy you will notice that it quickly stops cutting well.

On the flat areas I was able to use 100 grit paper without cutting too much into the cloth, although you can see that in a few the cloth is visible. Be very, VERY careful if you use 100 or 150 grit paper!! It can take down the epoxy quickly and you risk cutting into the cloth too much. In other areas I used 220.

TIP: Keep your random orbital sander FLAT on all the panels! The seams look very dark because they were NOT sanded. I will carefully and gently hand sand the seams later.

Pygmy Borealis XL deck panels sanded flat

Pygmy Borealis XL deck panels sanded flat

In the picture below you can still see some shiny areas. Those will all be hit with the sander again. The recessed deck plate is always a challenge and I'll hand sand it.


In the picture below you can see that the #4 side panels have not been sanded yet and are still shiny. The sides and bottom will be sanded later.


Eleven disks... for just the deck panels! But you can't worry about that. Spend the few extra dollars and keep using fresh ones. You can see in a few of them that the epoxy got too gummed up with little white dots. I used those disks too long and should have changed it out earlier.


Tomorrow I'm off to the hardware store for more paper and then back home for more sanding. And this is only the deck! I still need to sand the hull again (I put another fill coat of epoxy on it too).


Aloha!


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Pinguino Keel Fiberglassed

Here is another step that I do out-of-order from the official Pygmy manual. I lay the heavy fiberglass tape on the keel now, before I fiberglass the entire hull. The manual says to do it afterwards. However it looks much cleaner if you do it beforehand. Structurally there shouldn't be too much difference either way. In the future, if the keel ever needs to be re-taped, you just do what you would do otherwise... sand it a bit to rough it up and then lay down some more tape. No big deal. On the ends you will have better luck if you cut a few tucks in the edges of the tape. See below.  Try to make the tape as straight as you can. By putting it underneath the main fiberglassing it will be much less noticeable, but you'll still probably see it. The excess was simply squeegeed onto the bare wood which is fine and pre-saturates those areas. There is a huge debate on whether you should pre-saturate the panels or if you should just wet out the fiberglass cloth and hav...