I've mentioned many times that I'm doing some steps out of order. It just makes it easier and makes more sense if you can keep them all straight.
The Pygmy manual has you wait to cut the hatches until the entire boat is done. It also suggests that you wait to run tape along the inside hull/deck joint until you cut the hatches. However, if you do that then it's a real pain to get the tape cleanly behind the cockpit hip braces. The seat is in the way too.
So, here's a better order to do things:
1. While you are installing the coaming, you will have some time while the fiberglass cures on the upper coaming strips. This is a great time to go ahead and cut your hatches
2. Before you install the hip braces, run the hull/deck joint taping step. It's pretty easy to reach most of the joint if you have the hatches cut.
3. Now you can tinker away at installing both the upper coaming strips and the hatch spacers.
Easy!
Here's side two of the upper coaming strips and the hatch lips.
The next three pictures show the layout for the hatches, taking into account where I will also want the bungee cords to run. Look at the blue tape pieces starting right in front of the cockpit. That first piece is the furthest aft that the bungee cord will go, then will crisscross in an "X" 12" in front they will cross again, and then another 12". I spaced the hatch so that the middle strap will be yet another 12" in front. This will give a nice, coordinated look to the shock cording and the straps.
I did the same thing with the aft hatch. There will be one crisscross "X" of shock cord in front of the aft hatch. The "X" will be 12" fore and aft. Then 12" behind that will be the middle strap for the hatch.
Here you can see the hatch spacer strips being used to mark out the forward hatch. Run a pencil around the INSIDE of the spacer strips and mark the deck. Then carefully cut them out. I used a power jig saw.
Occasionally putting tape over the cut as you cut out the hatches can prevent them from falling through or tearing out too much wood as you get close to the end.
Later I put the boat on its side and did the hull/deck joint fillet and fiberglass taping step.
Tomorrow I'll scrape the tape and sand it down. Then will put a thin coat of epoxy over it to seal it. Then roll the boat over and do the other side.
It's getting there!
Aloha!
The Pygmy manual has you wait to cut the hatches until the entire boat is done. It also suggests that you wait to run tape along the inside hull/deck joint until you cut the hatches. However, if you do that then it's a real pain to get the tape cleanly behind the cockpit hip braces. The seat is in the way too.
So, here's a better order to do things:
1. While you are installing the coaming, you will have some time while the fiberglass cures on the upper coaming strips. This is a great time to go ahead and cut your hatches
2. Before you install the hip braces, run the hull/deck joint taping step. It's pretty easy to reach most of the joint if you have the hatches cut.
3. Now you can tinker away at installing both the upper coaming strips and the hatch spacers.
Easy!
Here's side two of the upper coaming strips and the hatch lips.
The next three pictures show the layout for the hatches, taking into account where I will also want the bungee cords to run. Look at the blue tape pieces starting right in front of the cockpit. That first piece is the furthest aft that the bungee cord will go, then will crisscross in an "X" 12" in front they will cross again, and then another 12". I spaced the hatch so that the middle strap will be yet another 12" in front. This will give a nice, coordinated look to the shock cording and the straps.
I did the same thing with the aft hatch. There will be one crisscross "X" of shock cord in front of the aft hatch. The "X" will be 12" fore and aft. Then 12" behind that will be the middle strap for the hatch.
Here you can see the hatch spacer strips being used to mark out the forward hatch. Run a pencil around the INSIDE of the spacer strips and mark the deck. Then carefully cut them out. I used a power jig saw.
Occasionally putting tape over the cut as you cut out the hatches can prevent them from falling through or tearing out too much wood as you get close to the end.
Later I put the boat on its side and did the hull/deck joint fillet and fiberglass taping step.
Tomorrow I'll scrape the tape and sand it down. Then will put a thin coat of epoxy over it to seal it. Then roll the boat over and do the other side.
It's getting there!
Aloha!
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