Skip to main content

First Pygmy Pinguino 145 panels epoxied

I guess I'm committed now! Just glued the first two Pygmy Pinguino 145 panels.

I'm deviating a slight bit at this point from the manual by gluing the panels in a different order. I'm starting with both panel #6's, both left and right, and then I'll work my way down through the panel #1's. That way the panels I will actually use first are on top of my stack and the ones that I won't use until later are on the bottom. It reduces the number of times that you have to move the fragile panel joints.


These two panels met up really nicely so there was no need to weigh them down. I simply used spring clamps on the edges of the table. IF they hadn't met well then I'd have used bricks to keep them down.

I also will only use fiberglass tape on the underside (the side with the stickers). If you're careful enough moving the panels then you really don't need tape on the outsides. No matter how hard you try, you will always see that outside tape. Once the monocoque hull is assembled then the hull and the fiberglass covering will be more than strong enough. Just move the panels carefully until then!

Pygmy gives you mylar to use as a barrier to the epoxy. Once cured, the mylar simply pulls off. If you didn't buy extra from them, then you can really use any other plastic. Most plastics don't stick to epoxy. I have an old box of transparencies from my school from back when we used to have overhead projectors. The school was just throwing them out and I grabbed a few boxes. Cut the mylar or plastic just big enough to cover your epoxy work.


Clamp the larger panel down in a few places. Notice that there are clamps on the opposite ends to make sure that the panels don't move. Then mix up some epoxy and coat it one to the edges. Carefully push the smaller panel into the larger one carefully lining the two panels together. Run your finger along the edges. Does the edge feel continuous and fair? Adjust as needed. Then clamp the smaller piece in place.

Paint more epoxy onto the seam between the two panels.

Cut a small piece of fiberglass tape just to fit. Or, if you wish, you can cut the tape to just overlap the edges. Gently place over the seam. Paint some more epoxy onto the tape. It should very quickly go completely transparent. You'll still be able to see it, but it will be clear.

Now take another small piece of mylar or plastic and roll it onto the seam. Let the bubbles slowly work out as they will, but then take your squeegee and gently run it left and right across the seam to work the bubbles out.


Let fully cure... usually 24 hours.

When done, carefully put aside for later. I normally stack the deck panels on top of the large cardboard box from Pygmy that I've placed on the floor under my table. The other panels for the hull I'll carefully stack to the side of my garage.



Cheers!


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Pinguino Keel Fiberglassed

Here is another step that I do out-of-order from the official Pygmy manual. I lay the heavy fiberglass tape on the keel now, before I fiberglass the entire hull. The manual says to do it afterwards. However it looks much cleaner if you do it beforehand. Structurally there shouldn't be too much difference either way. In the future, if the keel ever needs to be re-taped, you just do what you would do otherwise... sand it a bit to rough it up and then lay down some more tape. No big deal. On the ends you will have better luck if you cut a few tucks in the edges of the tape. See below.  Try to make the tape as straight as you can. By putting it underneath the main fiberglassing it will be much less noticeable, but you'll still probably see it. The excess was simply squeegeed onto the bare wood which is fine and pre-saturates those areas. There is a huge debate on whether you should pre-saturate the panels or if you should just wet out the fiberglass cloth and hav...