Skip to main content

Custom Wood Kayak Toggles

The end toggles that I started in the previous post turned out... okay. Not perfect but they'll do.

Today I unclamped the laminated block and milled it by drilling a 3/4" forstner bit about a 1/2" down, and then drilling all the way through with a smaller bit. Then ran it through my table saw.


After working them on my stationary sander for a while, this is what I ended up with. They have had two soaks in teak oil so far and I'll put a few more coats on over the next few days to build up a nice layer. I didn't want to coat them in epoxy or varnish because wood this thick may still expand even though it's laminated. The oil should be fine for a season or so.


I also fine tuned the bulkheads after they had been fiberglassed and started to install them in the hull. I started by getting them lined up inside the hull just where I wanted them, and then running a Sharpie pen around the hull to mark where to sand. Then I removed the bulkheads and sanded the hull at the line. Also sanded the edges of the bulkheads since it has been a few days since the first side was laminated. I drilled two #60 holes through each of the small epoxy windows that I made in each bulkhead too. They will allow the air to equalize and not such the hatches down too much.

Then I inserted the bulkheads back in and tacked them in place with some small dabs of thickened epoxy here and there, being careful not to move the bulkheads. Tomorrow when it's cured I will be able to use more force and get a bead of thickened epoxy around the entire hull.



Peace!


Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...
11 comments
Read more

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...
Post a Comment
Read more

Hatches Cut on Pygmy Borealis XL Kayak

I've mentioned many times that I'm doing some steps out of order. It just makes it easier and makes more sense if you can keep them all straight. The Pygmy manual has you wait to cut the hatches until the entire boat is done. It also suggests that you wait to run tape along the inside hull/deck joint until you cut the hatches. However, if you do that then it's a real pain to get the tape cleanly behind the cockpit hip braces. The seat is in the way too. So, here's a better order to do things: 1. While you are installing the coaming, you will have some time while the fiberglass cures on the upper coaming strips. This is a great time to go ahead and cut your hatches 2. Before you install the hip braces, run the hull/deck joint taping step. It's pretty easy to reach most of the joint if you have the hatches cut. 3. Now you can tinker away at installing both the upper coaming strips and the hatch spacers. Easy! Here's side two of the upper coaming stri...
Post a Comment
Read more