Skip to main content

Pinguino Deck Glued On

It's been a busy week and I haven't had too much time for the kayak, but finally today I glued the deck on. Phew!

First, earlier this week I installed the foot brace studs. I also sanded and then squeegeed on another light coat of epoxy where heels might rest. I'm just not happy with how it looks and may even do another coat after it full cures and I can sand it smooth.

I then sanded the inside edges of the hull and deck and did a number of other clean-up jobs and such. But finally I got to glue the deck on.

Here's how it looks:


And I drilled the two holes for the painters too. Actually did that before gluing the deck on so that I could be sure I lined up the hole with the thickened-epoxy dams that I poured last week. I added a first coat of epoxy to the holes to seal the edges of the exposed wood around the holes. I'll sand that later and add another coat at some point.


Tomorrow I'll sand the deck, seams and sides, and get ready for glassing the deck.



Cheers!



Comments

  1. Nice work I added to the two pygmys I built a anodized aluminum insert into the toggle rope pass through on each end of the kayak.A chafing rope will never expose wood to the elements and adds a nice looking touch.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Grain Surfboards Waterlog Surfboard Build! Part 1

I'm making a surfboard!  No, I don't actually surf. At least not yet. But we go to Hawaii a lot and a guy has to have a board, right? I didn't kayak either until I built my first Pygmy Coho over 25 years ago. Now I love kayaking. Hopefully the same thing will happen with the surfboard.  The board is a kit from Grain Surfboards . I chose the Waterlog in the 10' version.  I'm super tall and heavy and probably should have selected one of their larger boards, but this is the largest board they have that both Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines will let my check (They have a 10' 5" limit).  I didn't get any pics of the kit box, but it's just a long (10' plus) cardboard mashup box with sticks in it. The epoxy kit comes separately.  I also bought the "rocker table" that is CNC cut to precisely curve the board as you build it. I highly recommend buying a rocker table if you build one.        The kit comes with white cedar planks that you g...

Waterlog Surfboard Build, Part 2

 Since my last post I've made a lot of progress.   I've completed the rails and the landing strips.  Here is the chine log being epoxied in. By the way, I'm using epoxy for much of this. I ended up using Titebond III for most of the rails because they didn't have a lot of force on them and I could get them clamped down quickly (Titebond III sets quickly). But for anything that has any stress on it, I'm using WEST System epoxy that I have left over.   The nose strips had to be steamed. Read the manual for how to do this. It works well enough.  For the landing strips (the 'lands'), I'm doing the "alternative" method that is shown in one of Grain's tutorial videos . I'm running the outside one out the ends. It worked out well and I'd definitely recommend you do it instead of the convoluted approach they say in their manual.  I would expect that at some point in the future that they make this the primary way to do it and change their m...