Cowling spacer installed and hatches cut on Pinguino 145

It's been a couple weeks since my last post. Haven't had too much time to work on the Pinguino. But this weekend I made up some ground.

So far I've added a third coat of epoxy to the entire outside of the boat, and have sanded parts of the deck where the hatches and cockpit cowling will go. The hull I will let cure until the boat is done and I'm about to varnish.

Yesterday I cut the hatches.

Today I installed the spacer pieces for the hatches and the lower spacer pieces for the cowling.

I then ran a bead of thickened epoxy around the outside of the cowling. It adds a nice touch and feels good on your fingers when you attach your spray skirt.

Here's how it looks now...

Yes, I have a lot of clamps. No, you can never have enough. :-P

Over the years of making RC sailboats and other hobbies, I've amassed several boxes of clamps. Most are spring loaded which I prefer to screw-down C-clamps. I use C-clamps when I really need to get some pressure down, or when I need to twist a piece into shape. You can see a number of them on the forward part of the cockpit and elsewhere. But for the most part I use spring loaded clamps.

I have several other boxes of spring clamps, but they're really too strong. You don't want to squeeze out all the epoxy, so make sure the parts are completely touching and that you have some pressure, but just not tooooo much.

I like running some thickened epoxy around the outside of the cowling. When sanded and varnished it really looks nice and feels nice.

I used phenolic powder to thicken this part just for looks.

If you use a large tongue depressor and run it around the corner, you can get a really nice curved bead. Then scrape it a second time with good pressure down onto the deck and it will scrape up any excess. If there's still some after curing it will easily sand off.

Lots of little fiddely fiberglassing stuff to do next which I find tedious... but it has to be done.

More later!

Cheers!

Comments

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience. The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical. The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom. They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive. I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Outwales, Inwales, and Dyed Seats on Annapolis Wherry

For the past few days I have been tinkering on the outwales, spacered inwales, and the seats/thwarts. At the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival this year, I saw another Annapolis Wherry that had a lovely bow treatment along the outwales at the bow. Instead of ending the outwales near the bow, this builder brought the inwales all the way around the bow. I'm trying to do the same thing, although I think that other builder is a better woodworker than I am, based on how it looks so far! I used screws to temporarily hold the assembly in place while the epoxy cures. They have now been removed. The assembly is made up of cutoffs from the inwales and outwales. I screwed up on one side but luckily had enough cutoffs to make another one. The center accent strip is Alaskan yellow cedar. It will look a lot better once it has been shaped. I'll do that after all the inwales and outwales have been installed. I've also now epoxied on the first two outwales, one on port and one o...

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers. After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating. I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides. Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away. It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...

Wacko Ways to Build a Boat

Search This Blog