Skip to main content

Underside of deck completed

Did the final steps today on the underside of the deck.

  • Scraped and sanded the tape I added yesterday. 
  • Added two layers of glass to the aft area of the cockpit to reinforce the recessed deck plate.
  • Then rolled on a saturation coat for the entire underside of the deck.

In the picture below you can see the underside of the stern and where the three runs of fiberglass tape end.


This is after I scraped and sanded the underside tapes.


Here is the bow end and the other end of the three runs of tape.



This is the recessed deck plate from the under side. You can see that I beveled it quite a bit. But it worked!

 


This is after the thickened epoxy and the three layers of tape on the gaps between the reinforcement plates, as per the Pygmy manual, and after the saturation coat. The dark brown areas are the thickened epoxy "ramps" that the manual has you make so that the tape sits better. I didn't make them very well and the tapes on the chines could be better. Oh well...




Here you can see the two layers of fiberglass added to the back, underside of the cockpit to reinforce the recessed deck plate. It's molded in forever now!




Next step is to put the deck aside and return to the hull. I'll knock out the temporary frames, work on filling the ends (more on that later as the Pygmy manual says to do this step later, but I do it now), and then fiberglass the inside of the hull. It's getting there!


Aloha!



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers.  After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating.  I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides.  Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away.  It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...