Skip to main content

Foot Brace Studs installed on Pygmy Borealis XL

Over the last two nights I have installed the port and starboard foot brace studs. These are threaded studs welded onto a flat, round plate with holes in them. You position them according to the instructions and then bed them into thickened epoxy. On top of the thickened epoxy you wet out a 4" x4" layer of fiberglass. When dry the studs are solidly fixed to the sides.

On my last kayak I can tell you that I put A LOT of pressure at times on those foot peddles and they never came loose. The studs are a nice alternative to drilling holes through the sides of your boat to mount the foot braces.

Because I'm so tall I moved the position of the foot brace studs 1" forward. It's not much, but I'm also planning on putting my seat back as far as possible. So hopefully by moving the foot pegs forward and the seat aft I will have plenty of room!

This is the stud bedded into thickened epoxy but before the 4" x4" tape went on top. If you look closely you can still see the lines that you draw to help you center the studs in the correct position.


The kit supplies a 16" x 4" strip of fiberglass that you cut into four squares. Cut a tiny hole in the middle so that they can slip over the studs.


You'll want to put some plastic strapping tape underneath the foot rails while the epoxy dries. Alternatively you could wrap them in plastic wrap. They won't stick to the epoxy that way.


I simply wrapped strapping tape around the entire hull twice to prop the boat up on its side. There are two foam car carriers underneath.

This morning the foot rail came right off and I easily trimmed the fiberglass that hung over the top. Tonight I did the starboard side. 


Almost ready to glue the deck on! Just need to saturate the insides of the #4 panel above the fiberglass and then I'll stick the deck on the next day or so.


Peace!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers.  After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating.  I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides.  Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away.  It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...