Had a FANTASTIC day yesterday in Port Townsend, WA with my kayaking friends as I launched my new Pygmy Borealis XL kayak ! When you read the specs on the Borealis you might get the idea that it will look big. It really doesn't. In fact I think that it looks very much like the Coho. It's a bit beamier and taller, and has a Greenland style stern, but the overall impression is of a very modern boat. Beautiful!  The Borealis took three months exactly to build.  The stability is amazing. So much more stable than the my Coho or Coho Hi Volume . Those are terrific boats in their own right, but for a guy as tall and as heavy as I am (6'5", 245lbs.) the Borealis is the way to go. I hope this blog has been helpful to someone out there who is either building or considering building a Pygmy kayak . They are wonderful boats and you won't regret building one. You will end up with a truly proper boat that is one of the best kayaks you can buy. Oh, and I got to try out ...

Ta da!!!! It's finished! Took a short but very successful maiden paddle today! I love the Pygmy Borealis XL kayak! It is SO stable compared to the Coho and Coho Hi Volume boats that I've made before. This is the perfect kayak for someone my size. It will be wonderful! I was out for less than 20 minutes before I had to return for an appointment, but will take it on a proper test paddle this weekend up in Port Townsend. Can't wait!! Aloha!

I used the foam knee brace kit that Pygmy sells. Pretty basic but it works well. You get two pieces of soft white foam and two pieces of triangular rigid foam. The idea is that you use contact cement to glue the two together. See picture below.  Then you glue the entire thing underneath the deck panel where your knees go. The picture below is showing the PORT knee brace (yes, I know it says starboard on the foam but I messed up and corrected it). The idea is that the triangular bit it held next to your knee, but the thinner bit it padding between your knee and the deck panel.  Sit in the boat and put the glued up foam above your knee and under the deck. Position it at an angle pointing outward in-line with your legs.  Mark underneath on the deck panels where you want the foam. The sand the areas you marked. Apply contact cement to both the foam and the deck. Wait until it's dry and then place the foam onto the deck panel. Use a sharp kitchen knife to trim it flus...

I've been busy varnishing and finishing the final details of the Pygmy Borealis XL Kayak! It's almost finished. Today I did the shock cord perimeter lines and hand toggles. Here's how it looks: The only steps left are to adjust the seat and install the foam knee braces. I'm taking the maiden voyage this weekend! And... I'm doing it in Port Townsend which is where Pygmy Boats is located! Aloha!

Sanded with 220 grit today... just very lightly. Then added a second coat to the hull. Looks good so far! Will add at least a third coat and perhaps a fourth. Will see how time is going as I now have a deadline to meet... I'm going kayaking with my summer kayak group (even though it's now November) in 12 days and I want to finish the boat by then. I'll have just enough time... fingers crossed. If I put four coats on the hull and then let it harden for 48 hours, hopefully I can then roll it over and do the deck without leaving an impression on the hull from the ropes. Then I hope to put at least 5 coats on the deck, and maybe 6. That would leave 48 hours for it to harden while I install the deck hardware, and then give me another 24 hours before I had to put it on the car rack. Ugh... that's really rushing the varnish but it may work, especially if I keep the garage heated. Aloha!

Started the last major step tonight... varnishing the hull! I started by cleaning the garage and dismantling the table. Once cleaned up I pulled out my rope stands instead. They are lower too so I can more easily see what I'm doing. Varnishing Tips for Wood Kayaks with Fiberglass Coatings: Varnishing has always been a bit of a black art, but there is a simple, straightforward technique that works for many builders. It’s actually very simple and does not involve thinning the varnish. If you’re making fine furniture then you may want to do more steps, but for kayaks that will be used and will need to be re-varnished every 4-5 years anyway, this technique does a surprisingly good job. Do these steps on the hull first (boat upside down) and build up as many coats as you want (usually at least three). Then let it cure for a day or three, and then roll the boat over and repeat all these steps for the deck. Use high quality Z-Spar Flagship varnish from Pettit . Stir ...

Yesterday I drilled all my holes for the soft padeyes and then coated the holes with epoxy. I also cut, sanded and installed the hatch dowels. One trick is to sand a notch into the bottom edge of the dowel so that it acts as a grip to hold onto if the hatches get sucked down. To make the notch I used the round end of my stationary sander. I then epoxied them onto the hatches. Finally I made the decision to NOT paint my coaming as I had planned. Instead I will simply varnish it. So I added a final coat of epoxy on the coaming and will sand it flush in a few days once it's really cured. So... that's about it for the actual building of the Pygmy Borealis XL kayak!! My next steps are varnishing and installing the deck hardware. Then, gulp, I get to take it out and go paddling! Peace!