Skip to main content

Pinguino Deck Fiberglass Taped

Once you remove the deck from the hull, you have two steps to do on the underside of the deck. You can do both steps the same day and let it all cure.

1. Tape all the seams:

You first need to add some thickened epoxy to the reinforcement plates at the front of the cockpit. The idea is that you make a smooth transition between the plates at all three butt joints.

Then you add two layers of fiberglass tape just over the joints of the reinforcement panels and wet them out. Cute 6 pieces of tape 3.5" each, add them over the small joints, and wet them out.

Now you'll tape ALL the seams. Cut long strips of fiberglass tape to run the entire length of the deck on all three main seams. See the picture below.


Wet out the fiberglass tape and work it down into the seams so that it sits right on top with as few bubbles as you can get. It's pretty hard to use a squeegee, but you can dapple it with a disposable chip brush or disposable acid brush. Just make sure all the tape goes clear and that you work out as many bubbles as you can.

Here's how the bow looks. The stern looks similar:



2. Fiberglass underneath the recessed panel:

The next step involves the recessed deck. You need to add two layers of fiberglass cloth, not tape, to the area under the recessed deck.

First though, use some more thickened epoxy to make smooth transitions between the panel that the recessed panel sits on. Make it really thick so that it keeps its shape.

Then cut two pieces of cloth 9" x 25". Lay one layer across the recessed panel so that it also covers the three-way seam at the aft end of the recessed panel. Wet it out and work it down as best you can. A squeegee might help. The lay the second layer on top, with the back edge just slightly covering the first layer to give it a cleaner look. Wet it out and squeegee it out slightly to clean it up as best you can.


Give it several hours to set up and then come back and trim the cockpit excess cloth with a sharp utility knife.


Here's how it all looks now:


It looks like I've squeegeed on a saturation coat, but I haven't. I only spread out the excess epoxy that ran out of the tape. There are plenty of places that aren't covered. I'll sand most of it off tomorrow and then add a proper saturation coat. 

Tomorrow, when cured, I'll sand the edges of the tape smooth, clean up any other bits that need to be cleaned up or sanded, sand the whole thing lightly, and then squeegee on a saturation coat of epoxy. The day after that I'll lightly sand it again and add another thin coat.


Cheers!





Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Pinguino Keel Fiberglassed

Here is another step that I do out-of-order from the official Pygmy manual. I lay the heavy fiberglass tape on the keel now, before I fiberglass the entire hull. The manual says to do it afterwards. However it looks much cleaner if you do it beforehand. Structurally there shouldn't be too much difference either way. In the future, if the keel ever needs to be re-taped, you just do what you would do otherwise... sand it a bit to rough it up and then lay down some more tape. No big deal. On the ends you will have better luck if you cut a few tucks in the edges of the tape. See below.  Try to make the tape as straight as you can. By putting it underneath the main fiberglassing it will be much less noticeable, but you'll still probably see it. The excess was simply squeegeed onto the bare wood which is fine and pre-saturates those areas. There is a huge debate on whether you should pre-saturate the panels or if you should just wet out the fiberglass cloth and hav...