Skip to main content

Pygmy Coho Hi refinished and FOR SALE!

UPDATE: SOLD!! 

My 2009 Pygmy Coho Hi ("High Volume") kayak has been completely refinished and is now FOR SALE! I'm building a new Pygmy Borealis XL and only have room for one boat. Information at the bottom. Here's the link to the Craigslist ad.

$2,695 or reasonable offer! Send an email if interested! (Email address is listed in my "profile").

Click the images for a larger view:







This picture shows a Brunton 58 compass. It does not come with the boat. I am keeping it. You can easily find them online.












Custom made Pygmy Coho Hi kayak built in 2009 and completely refinished in August 2015.

This is one of the finest kayaks you can own! It weighs around 42 pounds, at least 10 pounds lighter than any fiberglass kayak, and it is as stiff as a Kevlar kayak. The reviews for the Coho are consistently glowing. It is amazing to paddle, handles very well, tracks like a laser, and can hold enough cargo for well over a week on the water.

Custom Built: It was built using the "tape method" instead of "stitch and glue" meaning that it doesn't have hundreds of small holes drilled through the wood like most Pygmies giving it a very clean look. It uses custom deck line strap-eyes instead of the hard plastic ones, the cockpit cowling is rounded, the foot pegs are internal, etc. It looks gorgeous and you’ll get loads of questions and comments about it. It has been stored inside for much of the time (it was hanging on our living room wall for years).

Condition: The boat has been completely refinished with WEST System epoxy added to seams and scratches as needed, and has been re-varnished with Z-Spar Flagship by Pettit. It has some visible dings and scratches, mostly on the bottom, which could not be removed during refinishing… that happens when you actually use the boat. Dings that could not come out are cosmetic only and have been thoroughly epoxied. The deck looks fantastic. All new deck lines and shock cords have been installed. It is ready for many years of hard use!

Fit: This boat would fit an average to tall adult. I'm 6'5" and it fits me well. The foot pegs can be adjusted to fit more average sized people but because I built it for me it may not fit someone shorter than, I'm guessing, 5' 8" or so. You'd need to sit in it and see.

If you were to try to build this yourself it would be over $1,600 (the kit costs $1,159, the hatch kit is $69, plus other built-in accessories – handles, foot pegs, varnish, perimeter lines, tools, consumables, etc… plus tax.) Plus you’d have to put at least 100 hours into building it. To have it custom built for you would start around $4,000 and higher depending on level of customization. A quick search online shows custom built versions going for upwards of $4,800.


Includes:
  • Refinished Pygmy Coho Hi with new perimeter lines, soft pad eyes, hand toggles, etc…
  • Thermorest seat that came with the boat (Contact Pygmy or REI if you want a new one)
  • Used cockpit cover (Contact Pygmy if you want a new one)
  • NOTE: The compass seen in the pictures is NOT included. 

You’ll need to buy your own:
  • PFD (“life-vest” – go to REI)
  • Paddle (Contact Pygmy for custom wooden ones, or our local Werner Paddles for the best carbon or fiberglass paddles you can buy.)
  • Transportation (car rack, trailer, etc…)

Send an email if interested! (Email address is listed in my "profile").

NOTE: Because Pygmy kayaks are kits, the quality of each boat can vary widely. It is important that you SEE each one individually to determine build quality. This particular one is very well built and looks amazing.


ALSO NOTE: Pygmy has many different kits, some of which are no longer made. The older kits were not nearly as efficient and easy to paddle as the newer ones. This one is one of their very newest models only coming out in 2009. It is extremely efficient and well designed. Stick to the Coho, Arctic Tern, Pinguino, Borealis XL and their other newer models. Avoid the older models that they no longer sell but that you still see on Craigslist. See Pygmy Boats for more information.  



Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...
11 comments
Read more

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers.  After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating.  I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides.  Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away.  It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...
Post a Comment
Read more

Waterlog Surfboard Build, Part 2

 Since my last post I've made a lot of progress.   I've completed the rails and the landing strips.  Here is the chine log being epoxied in. By the way, I'm using epoxy for much of this. I ended up using Titebond III for most of the rails because they didn't have a lot of force on them and I could get them clamped down quickly (Titebond III sets quickly). But for anything that has any stress on it, I'm using WEST System epoxy that I have left over.   The nose strips had to be steamed. Read the manual for how to do this. It works well enough.  For the landing strips (the 'lands'), I'm doing the "alternative" method that is shown in one of Grain's tutorial videos . I'm running the outside one out the ends. It worked out well and I'd definitely recommend you do it instead of the convoluted approach they say in their manual.  I would expect that at some point in the future that they make this the primary way to do it and change their m...
Post a Comment
Read more