I begun my build of the Pygmy Borealis XL with the construction of a temporary work table. It's plenty strong for my needs and is, most importantly, flat.
It does NOT have to be super strong but does need to be as flat as you can make it. Make sure it’s flat (and not warped, cupped, wavy or twisted) along the entire table. It’s not a big deal if it’s not perfectly “level” along the entire run but for ease and for professionalism make it as level as you can. It’s much more important that it’s FLAT.
This one is made from one sheet of 4’ x 8’ x ¾” MDF ripped into two sheets of 2’ x 8’ butted together to form a 16' long work surface. The panels are set on two 2” x6” x 16’ framing studs that have been selected for flatness along the edges. The table is 16’ long which is shorter than the kayak but is more than you need. If space is tight you could probably cut the table down to 14’ or even less. Pygmy even says that an 8’ board is enough.
You can see in the picture below that I also snapped a chalk line down the middle to be used later on. Mark one end "Bow" and the other "Stern". You'll be adding more lines later.
By the way, I'm making this kayak in a single car garage that's also filled with a table saw, shelves of tools, and a lot of lumber and sheet goods (no car though). You don't need tooooo much room to build one of these.
Aloha!
It does NOT have to be super strong but does need to be as flat as you can make it. Make sure it’s flat (and not warped, cupped, wavy or twisted) along the entire table. It’s not a big deal if it’s not perfectly “level” along the entire run but for ease and for professionalism make it as level as you can. It’s much more important that it’s FLAT.
This one is made from one sheet of 4’ x 8’ x ¾” MDF ripped into two sheets of 2’ x 8’ butted together to form a 16' long work surface. The panels are set on two 2” x6” x 16’ framing studs that have been selected for flatness along the edges. The table is 16’ long which is shorter than the kayak but is more than you need. If space is tight you could probably cut the table down to 14’ or even less. Pygmy even says that an 8’ board is enough.
You can see in the picture below that I also snapped a chalk line down the middle to be used later on. Mark one end "Bow" and the other "Stern". You'll be adding more lines later.
If yours is to be a temporary table, then consider tucking
the 2” x 6” boards inside the edges of the top panels for two reasons: A) it
distributes the weight of the panels more evenly and prevents sagging (although
I doubt that it would sag in the time it takes to complete the boat) and, B) so
I can use clamps on the edges to hold down panels and the temporary frames. If
you’re building a permanent work bench/table then build it better.
The original Pygmy manual suggests, gulp, nailing down your pieces while you glue the seams. Yikes! If you'll be taping your boat together as opposed to "stitching & glueing" then you won't want any holes in your boat. Clamping down the pieces or at least weighing them down is sufficient.
By the way, I'm making this kayak in a single car garage that's also filled with a table saw, shelves of tools, and a lot of lumber and sheet goods (no car though). You don't need tooooo much room to build one of these.
Aloha!
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