Second Epoxy Coat on Inside of Annapolis Wherry Hull

Today I sanded out the entire inside of the hull again, and epoxy-coated the entire inside, again. Phew.

Here's how it looked at the end of the day.

First I used a cabinet scraper to cut down the really big fuzz that is created when you epoxy bare wood. I used it on the entire hull because it's a great tool for finding raised epoxy bits too.

Then power-sanded where my 6" sander could reach. I hand-sanded the rest using a foam block with 80-grit sticky sand paper backing. I buy the rolls of sandpaper. The sticky back works really well.

Then I used the cabinet scraper again to cut off the tall scratches that the 80-grit paper leaves. This gave a nice surface for the epoxy.

Here's a close-up of how it looked after sanding.

Then I epoxy coated the entire inside again.

I mixed up about 10 pumps of epoxy and poured it along the keel in the second section (I'm not epoxy coating the fiberglass again in the bow and stern... will leave the weave rough in those areas).

Using a spreader, I brought the epoxy up to the edges on one side and then back down and up the other side.

Once fully covered, I then used a roller to even out the coat in that entire section. When the roller got too loaded I used it on the bulkheads and on the top three planks in the bow section.

Next I used a foam brush to coat the fillets and to squish out the excess in the seams.

Then the roller again to even out what the brush squished out. If really needed, I used the scraper to bring up some excess if there was just too much and scraped it into a cup.

Checked for runs and drips and goofs as best I could.

Finally, when happy enough with the coat, I used my propane blow torch and waved it over the surface to pop bubbles and to help it flow. Be sure to keep it moving!!

Then on to the next section.

The sanding took twice as long as the epoxy coating. Ugh...

Here's how it looks.

After an hour or so, you can really see the epoxy tighten up. It looks much smoother than the first coat.

When cured, I will sand it again with using 120, then 220, then 320 so that it's ready for varnish in a month or so.

Stay tuned!

Comments

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Grain Surfboards Waterlog Surfboard Build! Part 1

I'm making a surfboard! No, I don't actually surf. At least not yet. But we go to Hawaii a lot and a guy has to have a board, right? I didn't kayak either until I built my first Pygmy Coho over 25 years ago. Now I love kayaking. Hopefully the same thing will happen with the surfboard. The board is a kit from Grain Surfboards . I chose the Waterlog in the 10' version. I'm super tall and heavy and probably should have selected one of their larger boards, but this is the largest board they have that both Alaska Airlines and Hawaiian Airlines will let my check (They have a 10' 5" limit). I didn't get any pics of the kit box, but it's just a long (10' plus) cardboard mashup box with sticks in it. The epoxy kit comes separately. I also bought the "rocker table" that is CNC cut to precisely curve the board as you build it. I highly recommend buying a rocker table if you build one. The kit comes with white cedar planks that you g...

Waterlog Surfboard Build, Part 2

Since my last post I've made a lot of progress. I've completed the rails and the landing strips. Here is the chine log being epoxied in. By the way, I'm using epoxy for much of this. I ended up using Titebond III for most of the rails because they didn't have a lot of force on them and I could get them clamped down quickly (Titebond III sets quickly). But for anything that has any stress on it, I'm using WEST System epoxy that I have left over. The nose strips had to be steamed. Read the manual for how to do this. It works well enough. For the landing strips (the 'lands'), I'm doing the "alternative" method that is shown in one of Grain's tutorial videos . I'm running the outside one out the ends. It worked out well and I'd definitely recommend you do it instead of the convoluted approach they say in their manual. I would expect that at some point in the future that they make this the primary way to do it and change their m...

Search This Blog