Skip to main content

Annapolis Wherry Hull Stitched Together

I'm making very good progress. I brought home the Chesapeake Light Craft Annapolis Wherry one week ago, and yesterday was able to wire the hull together. 

 

CLC does a very nice job in designing their panels. They use a puzzle joint that very accurately aligns the panels into the full-length planks. 

After gluing up the final planks and storing them under my table, I adjusted the table to get ready to wire the hull. 

The planks will need to be suspended between two sawhorses normally, but I'm very tall and bending over that much kills my back, so I simply removed one of the MDF boards that formed my table and shifted the other one to the middle. Then I screwed two 4' 2 x 6's to the ends of that MDF panel. That way, by using the factory edges, the 2 x 6's are aligned to each other. See the pictures below. 


I store my completed planks and rails under the sawhorses until needed. That way they are mostly out of the way and stay flat.


After making sure that the 2 x 6s were level to each other, I started to wire the hull. 

Here are the two #1 planks suspended between the boards. The hull will start to form a rocker as it's wired so you can't build it on a table. Also wires will be too hard to twist if on a table. You really must suspend the planks. Yes, they are very floppy at this point, but be gentle and they will be fine.

About three hours later, the ten planks were all wired together and ready to be brought up into a finished hull form. This is how they look when wired together. They do start to round up. I was able to get them wired solo, but it would be easier if you have a helper while adding the first wires on planks #4 and #5.


I started with the bow, then added the transom, and finally the bulkheads. Your fingers will be very sore by the time you're done!

The bulkheads are a bear to install, but if you tighten the wires enough you can get the bulkheads to settle down nicely.


You'll notice in the picture below that I've trimmed the two middle bulkheads at the tops to accommodate the future spacered inwales.


Tomorrow I'll roll the hull over, tighten all the wires, and the epoxy all the planks together!

Stay tuned!


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Outwales, Inwales, and Dyed Seats on Annapolis Wherry

For the past few days I have been tinkering on the outwales, spacered inwales, and the seats/thwarts.  At the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival this year, I saw another Annapolis Wherry that had a lovely bow treatment along the outwales at the bow. Instead of ending the outwales near the bow, this builder brought the inwales all the way around the bow. I'm trying to do the same thing, although I think that other builder is a better woodworker than I am, based on how it looks so far!  I used screws to temporarily hold the assembly in place while the epoxy cures. They have now been removed.  The assembly is made up of cutoffs from the inwales and outwales. I screwed up on one side but luckily had enough cutoffs to make another one. The center accent strip is Alaskan yellow cedar. It will look a lot better once it has been shaped. I'll do that after all the inwales and outwales have been installed.  I've also now epoxied on the first two outwales, one on port and one o...

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...