Skip to main content

Pygmy Pinguino Panels Taped and Epoxied

Phew! I spent four days taping together the panels on the Pygmy Pinguino 145 and yesterday was finally able to get the panels epoxied.

(NOTE: By "spent four days" I really mean I tinkered on it for four evenings... probably took about 3-4 hours or so in total to tape the hull together. Compare that to how long it would take to "stitch and glue" with wires. It would take you three hours just to drill the holes, another hour to cut the wires, another 3-4 to get the panels lined up and stitched, and then afterwards another 3-4 to remove the wires! Add to that how much blood you'll lose poking yourself with the wires... the "taping method" is sooooo much better!! And your boat looks sooooo much better!)

Whether you're doing the taping method or the stone-age "stitch and glue" wire sewing method, your hull won't look pretty at this point. You'll have epoxy smears, maybe a few drips and runs that you missed, etc... Not every seam will be filled well. It's a messy process, but it will all look great within a few steps when you get the fiberglass on.

Here's how it looked when I was finished last night.


The Pinguino panels seemed to come together very well and I ended up not using too much tape. I bought three rolls of strapping tape but ended up using just most of one. I also used Gorilla Tape in places. That's the black tape. But compared to other hulls I've taped, this one used very little.


Here you can see some of the tape that was wrapped all the way around the entire table and back up the other side.

Do whatever you need to keep the panels as perfectly aligned as you can!


Here is a picture of how the seam "should" look when filled with epoxy. After this sets up for an hour or four, you should then come back and add some thickened epoxy. No, not all my seams look this nice as you can obviously see in the other pics.


Next steps: Remove the push-pins, remove the tape carefully, fill the gaps, add thickened epoxy to the ends, etc...




Cheers!




Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

Outwales, Inwales, and Dyed Seats on Annapolis Wherry

For the past few days I have been tinkering on the outwales, spacered inwales, and the seats/thwarts.  At the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival this year, I saw another Annapolis Wherry that had a lovely bow treatment along the outwales at the bow. Instead of ending the outwales near the bow, this builder brought the inwales all the way around the bow. I'm trying to do the same thing, although I think that other builder is a better woodworker than I am, based on how it looks so far!  I used screws to temporarily hold the assembly in place while the epoxy cures. They have now been removed.  The assembly is made up of cutoffs from the inwales and outwales. I screwed up on one side but luckily had enough cutoffs to make another one. The center accent strip is Alaskan yellow cedar. It will look a lot better once it has been shaped. I'll do that after all the inwales and outwales have been installed.  I've also now epoxied on the first two outwales, one on port and one o...

Annapolis Wherry Hull Painted

If you haven't yet, please read my previous post regarding amine blush and primers.  After thoroughly washing the hull with water, and then priming, I was now ready for top coating.  I used Interlux Toplac Plus in Matterhorn White. What a great paint! OMG... this stuff seems to have magical properties! I've never used a paint that does not sag or run, even on vertical hull sides.  Of course, you have to roll on a light coat with a foam roller, but even with a thin coat like that, most paints would still have runs. This one doesn't! And you don't need to tip it either! Just roll it on and walk away.  It gets better too... you don't have to sand after each coat! As long as you roll on a second coat after 16 hours but before 3 days, you don't have to sand. Nice! I did three coats in three days with no sanding between coats. There's a slight bit of orange peel, but most of the surface issues are due to my poor surface prep instead of orange peel. To be honest, ...