I've spent the past day and today doing a number of jobs that just need to be done but aren't that noticeable.
First, I added a saturation coat to the bare wood on the #4 panels above where I cut the fiberglass the other day. I also added a layer of epoxy over the area where heels may rest.
Today I scraped the sides and heel area and added another coat of epoxy.Here's how it looks now. It's technically a third coat, but really only two as much of the first two have been either scraped or sanded. I may add a third layer once this is cured.
I also worked on the end pours. The Pygmy manual says to do the end pours later on after the boat is complete. It says to take the boat outside and prop it up on a wall with the end in a bucket of ice water. Then you contort yourself and pour thickened epoxy down into the end and let it cure. Then you do the other end. THEN... you have to guess where you can drill holes through the ends for your painters (the lines that you tie to the boat later).
I think there's a better way, and I got this from one of the early Pygmy manuals twenty years ago. They use to have you make a plastic or Mylar dam at the ends and pour in thickened epoxy in layers. Once cured, you can easily pull off the plastic and you can easily see where you can drill your painter holes. After the deck is on, if you still wish to completely fill the ends, you can still do so, but you'll use much less epoxy to fill the small gaps between the dam you poured now and the top of the deck. You won't need to cool your boat either as the amount you'll pour at that point won't create that much heat.
But be cautious though! Making a "two pump" batch will create heat, even in your dams. That is why you should layer it. Pour in one "one pump" batch that has been thickened, let it go through its heating process, and then later come back and add another layer. Do this until you have mostly filled the ends.
If you need to, prop one end of the boat up and only do one end at a time, so that the end you're working on is level with the ground and the epoxy can settle into it.
In the picture below, the clamps are to help keep the tape down and prevent blowouts. This is the third layer of thickened epoxy. I had a blowout earlier on the stern, but it cleaned up well enough.
You can't tell in these pics, but the bow end of the boat is propped up pretty high to make the stern end level.
You can see in the picture below that the plastic dam got a bit too hot in the second layer and started to melt the plastic. It only deformed it though and didn't melt through.
BUT KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE HEAT THAT IS CREATED BY THE CHEMICAL REACTION!!!!
First, I added a saturation coat to the bare wood on the #4 panels above where I cut the fiberglass the other day. I also added a layer of epoxy over the area where heels may rest.
Today I scraped the sides and heel area and added another coat of epoxy.Here's how it looks now. It's technically a third coat, but really only two as much of the first two have been either scraped or sanded. I may add a third layer once this is cured.
I also worked on the end pours. The Pygmy manual says to do the end pours later on after the boat is complete. It says to take the boat outside and prop it up on a wall with the end in a bucket of ice water. Then you contort yourself and pour thickened epoxy down into the end and let it cure. Then you do the other end. THEN... you have to guess where you can drill holes through the ends for your painters (the lines that you tie to the boat later).
I think there's a better way, and I got this from one of the early Pygmy manuals twenty years ago. They use to have you make a plastic or Mylar dam at the ends and pour in thickened epoxy in layers. Once cured, you can easily pull off the plastic and you can easily see where you can drill your painter holes. After the deck is on, if you still wish to completely fill the ends, you can still do so, but you'll use much less epoxy to fill the small gaps between the dam you poured now and the top of the deck. You won't need to cool your boat either as the amount you'll pour at that point won't create that much heat.
But be cautious though! Making a "two pump" batch will create heat, even in your dams. That is why you should layer it. Pour in one "one pump" batch that has been thickened, let it go through its heating process, and then later come back and add another layer. Do this until you have mostly filled the ends.
If you need to, prop one end of the boat up and only do one end at a time, so that the end you're working on is level with the ground and the epoxy can settle into it.
In the picture below, the clamps are to help keep the tape down and prevent blowouts. This is the third layer of thickened epoxy. I had a blowout earlier on the stern, but it cleaned up well enough.
You can't tell in these pics, but the bow end of the boat is propped up pretty high to make the stern end level.
You can see in the picture below that the plastic dam got a bit too hot in the second layer and started to melt the plastic. It only deformed it though and didn't melt through.
BUT KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE HEAT THAT IS CREATED BY THE CHEMICAL REACTION!!!!
I had a completely different idea for end pours and anchoring points. I made some aluminum stock that is let into a hole in the top of the deck and anchored by being encased in the end pour. The portion that is above the deck has a shaped eye hole in it. A photo being extremely valuable here if only I can figure out how to post them here.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.flickr.com/photos/bruckzone/albums/72157710751892758
The above is a link to my whole build photo series. I hope it is appropriate to include here.
Bruckzone... wow, I've never seen that technique before. Did it add much weight? I'm curious to know how well it holds up. When we fully load a kayak it can weigh well over 150 lbs or even more. I've never had an issue with the holes that I've drilled.
ReplyDeleteTime will tell regarding durability. I did add chopped glass fibers to the epoxy for the "rebar effect" to add shear strength. I do not plan to ever load mine that heavy. Mostly just the weight of the kayak. It did not add much weight though I can not quantify that statement. I can't see it adding much more than a standard end pour. The total quantity was about 6 pumps worth per end. Just enough to encase the aluminum.
DeleteI came up with the idea after deciding I did not want anything on the ends that would snag in sticks, twigs, low branches, etc that I encounter so often in lakes and rivers. This design will not snag going forward or backward. I made handles with stainless hooks for carrying that detach while paddling. It remains to be seen if it works as well in actuality as it does in my head.
Steve, thanks again for the effort you put into sharing this inspiring work. The photo link above now includes my kayak carrying handle hooks to be used in conjunction with the deck eyes, as well as my first try at a DIY half cover drip guard.
ReplyDelete