Skip to main content

Filler Coat of Epoxy on the Pinguino 145

Today I rolled on a filler coat of epoxy over the fiberglass cloth that I did yesterday. It didn't entirely fill the weave but should be enough for me to sand pretty well. After sanding, I may add a third coat if needed but we'll see.

What I actually did was try to roll on the epoxy like the manual says, but I've never had luck with the rollers. They quickly fill with air, they don't distribute the epoxy well like a paint roller distributes paint, and they tend to fall apart and leave little foam bits on my hull. But I tried it again today... it fell apart and left too much air in the epoxy... doh!

So when I had had enough I went back to what I've typically done, which is to simply use the same yellow plastic spreader/squeegee thing that I used to wet out the fiberglass cloth yesterday. Easy.


I wasn't sure if I'd like the red color of the stem fill but now I do. It's taken on a rich, darker color and it will work well. I like it so much in fact, that I may use the red phenolic powder to fill the deck seams. It would make for a cool, customized look.


Company in town for a week, so won't be doing much work on the boat. Good timing though as the hull can now cure very well for a week and then I can sand it.



Cheers!




Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Annapolis Wherry Spacered Inwales Installed

For the past week (yes, WEEK!) I have been working on the outwales and spacered inwales. The inwales and outwales are such an obvious part of the boat that you really want them to look as good as you can possibly make them. And doing that takes a lot of time and patience.  The spacered inwale kit is an addition to the basic wherry kit. The kit includes the OUTwales, but does not come with INwales. We like the look of the spacered inwales and find that they have some function too for securing things to the hull. They look nautical.    The spacered inwale kit comes with inwale rails, sticks you cut to make the spacers, a replacement breasthook for the bow, and replacement quarter knees for the transom.  They leave it up to you for how long to cut the spacers and how far apart to space them. The manual that comes with the kit is extensive.  I like the look of rounded spaces. No, it's not the normal look of spacers which are supposed to simulate the ribs on a wooden...

The Rogue Manual

I've posted about this earlier, but thought it might be good to post it again for anyone who may be interested. I've started to write a manual of tips and tricks for Pygmy solo kayak builders. It covers the taping method, so that your boat doesn't have hundreds of holes all over it. I'm on version 2 now. Version 2 covers several other tips and tricks from myself and from others as collected over time. ATTENTION : Use the manual at your own risk! The only person responsible for any mistakes or problems with the building of your boat is you. Always use the official Pygmy manual that came with your kit. Only do those tips and tricks that make sense to you. If something in the manual doesn't sound right to you, then don't do it! Neither I, nor Pygmy Boats, nor anyone else except YOU is responsible for the safety of your boat and the quality of your build. It's in very rough draft form right now, but if you'd like to read it, please send a $10 donat...

Outwales, Inwales, and Dyed Seats on Annapolis Wherry

For the past few days I have been tinkering on the outwales, spacered inwales, and the seats/thwarts.  At the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival this year, I saw another Annapolis Wherry that had a lovely bow treatment along the outwales at the bow. Instead of ending the outwales near the bow, this builder brought the inwales all the way around the bow. I'm trying to do the same thing, although I think that other builder is a better woodworker than I am, based on how it looks so far!  I used screws to temporarily hold the assembly in place while the epoxy cures. They have now been removed.  The assembly is made up of cutoffs from the inwales and outwales. I screwed up on one side but luckily had enough cutoffs to make another one. The center accent strip is Alaskan yellow cedar. It will look a lot better once it has been shaped. I'll do that after all the inwales and outwales have been installed.  I've also now epoxied on the first two outwales, one on port and one o...